- Olivia Giacobetti Perfumer:
Company:Lubin
Also worked with: IUNX, Iskia
Education: Robertet
Web:lubin.eu
Olivia Giacobetti: A Visionary in Contemporary Perfumery
Born in 1966, Olivia Giacobetti, a celebrated French perfumer, developed an early fascination with fragrances, shaped by her artistic upbringing. Her father, Francis Giacobetti, a renowned artist, instilled in her a creative ethos that would later define her career. At the age of nine, her intrigue with perfumery was ignited by Jean - Paul Rappeneau’s filmLovers Like Us, where Yves Montand portrayed a perfumer, planting the seed for her lifelong passion.
Giacobetti’s professional journey began at 16 when she joined Annick Goutal, followed by a seven - year tenure at Robertet, a leading French fragrance and flavor house, where she honed her craft as an assistant perfumer. In 1990, at 24, she founded her company,Iskia, establishing herself as a sought - after nose for prestigious brands like L’Artisan Parfumeur, Diptyque, and Hermès, creating bespoke scents that transcended conventional perfumery.
In 2003, with backing from Shiseido, the Japanese cosmetics conglomerate, she launched her independent line,Iunx, offering perfumes, candles, and body products. Despite initial challenges,Iunxfound its niche in the Hôtel Costes in Paris—where Giacobetti had previously crafted the hotel’s signature scent—and she opened a new boutique in the city in 2016.
Throughout her career, Giacobetti has collaborated with luxury powerhouses including Guerlain, Fendi, Hugo Boss, and Penhaligon’s. She is heralded for her innovative use of fig notes in the mid - 1990s, a pioneering move that redefined olfactory trends. Her approach to fragrance creation is marked by the artful juxtaposition of contrasting elements: blending natural and synthetic ingredients, which she views as"indissociable"—with synthetics providing structural backbone and naturals adding nuanced depth.
Her iconic creations, such as L’Artisan Parfumeur’sPremier Figuierand Diptyque’sPhilosykos, draw inspiration from the fig tree, showcasing her ability to translate botanical essence into evocative scents. These works not only influenced industry trends but also inspired numerous brands to embrace fig notes. Other notable fragrances includeEn Passant, a delicate floral that captures the essence of spring rain, and L’Artisan Parfumeur’sDzing!, a circus - inspired blend that masterfully balances diverse aromas into a comforting, subtly succulent composition.
Olivia Giacobetti’s legacy lies in her role as a trailblazer who championed the recognition of the"nose"in perfumery, shifting the industry’s focus toward the artisan behind the scent. Through her independent projects and collaborative work, she continues to redefine the boundaries of olfactory art, solidifying her status as a visionary in contemporary fragrance creation.
