- Bernard Maccini Perfumer:
Bernard Maccini is a distinguished figure in the world of perfumery. As the chief perfumer and head of the fragrance production site for Payan Bertrand in Grasse, he has witnessed and contributed to significant changes in the industry.
In the late 1990s, with the advent of robotisation in the fragrance - compounding process, Maccini has seen the role of the fragrance compounder evolve. The transition from a physically demanding job to one involving more technical assistance and meticulous oversight has been a notable shift. He has worked with different types of robots; for instance, the early models that weighed out raw materials one by one and the more recent ones, launched in the early 2010s, which can measure the volume of all ingredients simultaneously. This technological progress has cut down the time needed to weigh out a formula, with the new - generation machines reducing the time to around 10 minutes compared to nearly an hour with the first - generation robots or two hours for a completely manual process.
Maccini understands that while artificial intelligence has opened up new possibilities, human intervention remains crucial in the manufacture of perfumed compositions. Ingredients used in very small quantities, such as pyrazines or sulphurous materials, are added by hand. Expensive natural materials like rose essence, jasmine absolute, or viscous substances like resinoids are also manually added to avoid damage in the robot - connected pipe systems. The compounder's expertise, built on years of experience, is essential to ensure that ingredients are mixed in the correct order and sensitive raw materials are not heated incorrectly, preventing chemical transformations that could lead to olfactory, colourimetric, or analytical non - conformity of a batch.
Bernard Maccini's work as a perfumer extends beyond the technical aspects of compounding. He has created a range of luxurious perfume collections. For example, he is the perfumer behind La Closerie des Parfums' Oud Cardamome. This fragrance, which opened with Guatemalan cardamom and Moroccan artemisia, reveals a perfect balance between the woody, sensual richness of oud and the smoky scent of Bulgarian tobacco absolute. Another creation, Tabac Oud Cardamome by La Closerie des Parfums, has a unique DNA. It has been noted for its similarity to Amouage Interlude Man in some respects, yet it also has its own characteristics, such as a brighter green note, a sweeter base, and a warmer take on the overall scent profile.
His perfumes are crafted with unique, high - quality ingredients, resulting in unforgettable and long - lasting scents. They capture elegance and individuality, appealing to those with a refined taste for premium fragrances. Whether it's the complex blend of spices, woods, and smoky notes in his creations or the harmonious combination of different olfactory elements, Bernard Maccini's work showcases his mastery in the art of perfumery.
